Showing posts with label Maraschino Cherries. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Maraschino Cherries. Show all posts

Sunday, June 21, 2009

"Sing to me, oh Muse..."

It isn't that I haven't been writing, it's just that I've been writing crap. At best I've usually only posted about one in three or four of the items I write. So, if you roll your eyes at what's posted, just think of the suffering I've saved you!

I've developed an appreciation of people who crank out something on a regular basis; be it a daily column, once or twice a week or even monthly. I'm sure having your paycheck based on your output is a great motivator. I write mostly as an outlet. I have no aspirations of writing the "Great American" novel. I'm not sure I have anything that profound to say.

One of good and bad things about the blog format is that it's totally free form. Some of the stream of consciousness posts out there are a little "too out there" to suit me, but essentially a blog is for the person writing it. If it make the writer happy that's a wonderful thing. If it makes other people happy that's even better and a blog that generates income might be a real bonus. But I digress.

I started out today to write a Father's Day Post. I've been thinking a lot about my Father lately. Actually I've been thing about both my parents lately because their age is showing.

I call my parents frequently. My dad loves to have a little chat; only rarely does it go longer than ten or fifteen minutes. My mother on the other hand is not one given to talking on the phone, at least not to me.

My call to my mother on Mother's Day went something like this.

Me: Hello mom, Happy Mother's Day!

Mom: Oh hi, thanks for the call, would you like to talk to your dad?

I guess she had other fish to fry.

My upbringing was pretty Ozzy and Harriet. My father worked outside the home and my mother was a housewife. In my childhood hometown in the late fifties and through the sixties this was the norm. I only knew a couple of kids my age, that had mothers that worked outside the home.

One of the things we did a lot of was camping. We had an old tent trailer that we drug around behind various vehicles. Later we had an Aloha Trailer and then we went upscale with an aluminum skinned Avion.

We put a lot of miles on those trailers. On weekends often went out just for a night or two at a nearby state park or just someplace off in the woods in the nearby Wallowa Whitman National Forest. In the summer we always took a couple of weeks for a family vacation. We'd alternate years; one year traveling to someplace out of state and the next year heading for the coast.

Dad was a Boy Scout and therefore so was I. He was involved in Scouting in one way or another for nearly seventy years. We spent a lot of good times together on Scouting activities and though I didn't appreciate in as much then as I do now he kept me on track and I got my Eagle Award.

My father was also involved in the community. He served on the vestry at church and was always hauling me over to the church to make a repair of a faucet washer or some other little item. Perhaps the most thrilling thing I remember about church chores was him taking a pellet gun into the basement of the church and shooting a rat.

He also had a four year long stint in politics as a City Commissioner. I think we were all glad that he did it and were even happier when he was done.

My mother was and inveterate planner and our itinerary was well laid out. We'd have reservations in campgrounds with power, water and sewer connections, so we never really had to rough it too much.

My mother always sewed a lot and still does. She used to make clothes for the whole family, but the prized products were quilts. Originally, they were frugally made of scraps from the clothing. Later on she started buying fabric specifically for quilts and makes them in patterns she sees in the quilting books.

The other thing my mother did was cook. We always had home cooked meals. Going out for dinner was a rare treat. Much of what we ate was supplemented with home canned pickles and fruits. We didn't live high on the hog, but we never lacked for the essentials.

Another memory from my childhood is perhaps a different awareness of the seasons. We would plan a trip to the coast for clam tides - my father was a very efficient stalker of razor clams. At work he'd schedule projects around the seasons too. He always seemed to be in Walla Walla when the farmers were bringing in the sweet onions. Magically he'd be in the Blue Mountains when the mushrooms were out. He wasn't a big game hunter or a fisherman, but we did go after pheasant, chukars and the occassional quail. I remember that he and the other guys on his survey crew always seemed to have they're shotguns in the truck when they were going to be over around Pendleton in the fall.

Summer was canning time. Cherries from orchards near Cove. Peaches, pears, plums and apricots too, although I don't remember where they came from. Hard to keep a house cool when you've got a canner and pans full of syrup boiling on the stove.

I have a much greater appreciation for the home processed and wild harvest goods as an adult, than I ever did as a child. We were part of the slow food, locavore movement when it was life, not a lifestyle.

Here's a cocktail that I make that makes use of a couple of my homemade ingredients

Mystic Wood - from Mix Magazine - From Reach for the rye, by Liz Colie Gadberry, Jan/Feb 09

This is the original recipe

2 ounces rye whiskey (Sazerac 6-year-old)

½ ounce cherry liqueur (Heering)

½ ounce apricot brandy (Rothman & Winter)

2 dashes Angostura bitters

Stir ingredients over ice and strain into a small chilled cocktail glass or champagne coupe.

- From Kelley Swenson, bar manager at Ten-01

The first few times I made this cocktail I made it with some homemade apricot liqueur (recipe later in this post) and Cherry Heering and it was pretty dang good. I was having a hankering for it the other day and I ran out to Pearl Specialty and bought a $25 bottle of the highly touted Rothman & Winter apricot brandy that the recipe calls for, frankly I thing the homemade version is as good and with a few tweaks might be better.

The Home version

Mythic Wood

2 ounces rye whiskey (Wild Turkey 101 of course)

½ ounce cherry liqueur (liquid from homemade Maraschino Cherries - any version)

½ ounce apricot brandy (Housemade - Recipe Below)

2 dashes Angostura bitters

Stir ingredients over ice and strain into a small chilled cocktail glass or champagne coupe.

Housemade Apricot Brandy

1/2 pound of dried apricots
1 cup of boiling water
2-3 cups of brandy or vodka
1 cup of simple syrup - two parts sugar to one part water
5 apricot kernels (the seed inside the pit) or five raw almonds or a couple of drops of almond extract.

Pour the boiling water over the apricots to plump them.

After 10 or 15 minutes drain off the excess water into a measuring cup and add liquor to bring the total to 3 cups.

Put the apricots, liquor/water mix and the kernels or extract in a jar and let it set in a cool dark place for a minimum of two weeks.

Strain the liquid from the apricots and add the simple syrup.

Bonus Factoid: Apricots are related to Almonds. Apricot pits have trace amounts of cyanogenic glycosides which release cyanide when digested - now, before you think I'm trying to kill you or myself, it should be noted that bitter almonds contain a much higher amount of this compound and the lethal dose of them is considered to be in the neighborhood of 50 to 70 kernels

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Life is just a Bowl of Cherries

In hindsight I probably should have called this Blog "House of Rye" or the "Manhattan Project" because I drink much more rye than bourbon these days and most of that rye is consumed in the form of Manhattans.

One of my earlier posts, Garnish with a Cherry, dealt with recipes for Manhattans. Since a Manhattan consists of only four ingredients, whiskey, vermouth, bitters and a cherry or two, it shouldn't be that hard to reach nirvana.

Whiskey in the form of Rye is my preferred poison in a Manhattan. Some folks use Bourbon in a Manhattan, but I find they make the cocktail too sweet. I most often choose Wild Turkey 101. It has a nice spicy rye bite and the high proof gives it some kick. It's a bargain to boot at $22 for a 750ml bottle. I usually have a few other bottles of Rye in the house as well. Currently I've got Jim Beam, Rittenhouse, Russell's Reserve and the ubiquitous WT 101 ryes on hand. There are other high end ryes out there that I cast a covetous eye on when I hit the local liquor shop, but basically I'm a cheap bastard and unwilling to pay price they command. With liquor as with many other things in life, a doubling of price doesn't extend in to a doubling of enjoyment or quality. That being said I'd gladly accept a gift or donation of a bottle of Black Maple Hill for the purposes of research.

Sweet Vermouth is the second component in a Manhattan. There are a couple of vermouths that are widely available in Oregon; Noily Prat and Martini & Rossi. Of the two I prefer Martini and Rossi. It's a bit fruitier and complex in my opinion and better compliments the rye. For folks with a fatter purse there are some additional choices to consider including Carpano Antica, Punt e Mas or the domestically produced Vya.

The third ingredient in a Manhattan is bitters. A couple of dashes of bitters changes the whole complexion of cocktail. For years the only bitter's choices available were Angostura and Peychaud. Angostura are the bitters of choice for an everyday Manhattan. Angostura now has an orange bitter available too and it make an interesting variation with it's strong orange aromas. Bitter's: both homemade and commercial are becoming much more widely available and are worth of posts of there own.

Last and certainly not least is the cherry. Many people are put off by dayglo maraschino cherries. One can hardly blame them. The maraschino on the grocery store shelf is a shadow of the original liquor soaked wild maraska cherries that were the original Maraschino Cherry. Maraschino. Luxardo, an Italian Liquor producer makes a high quality candied cherry that is pretty good, but it wasn't what I was looking for in the ultimate cherry for a Manhattan. While it's much better than the dayglo variety, it didn't quite cut it.

What's a guy to do? Life wasn't a bowl of cherries. I needed the perfect cherry to reach my Manhattan Nirvana.

Time to search the internet, because you can find anything on the internet can't you? Most of the recipes I found called for putting cherries in a jar, adding sugar and covering them with brandy. This produces brandied cherries; tasty, but not a Maraschino Cherry. After searching further and not finding anything that really looked like it would make me happy, I decided it was time to experiment.

Call it beginner's luck, karma, kismet or whatever, the first batch of cherries I made were spectacular. Now known by the few who have had the privilege of tasting them as "The Chcrries". The Cherries were everything I wanted. They are tasty, not too sweet, have complex flavors. They are the treat at the bottom of the glass. Indulge, use two! A half gallon of them, I'm rich! Those things will last me a year for sure. Share the wealth and give a few away, because there's a half gallon of them, I'll never run out.

Okay, I ran out. What's a guy to do? I thought why not try infusing some frozen or canned cherries. So I got a pound of frozen cherries at Trader Joe's and made the following recipe.

Housemade Maraschino Cherries - Using Frozen Cherries

The advantage of this recipe is that it can be made year round. The frozen cherries seem to absorb the alcohol and sugar much more quickly than the fresh cherries and the process only takes a week.

  • 1lb of Frozen Sweet Cherries
  • 2/3 C evaporated cane sugar
  • 1/2 C Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur
  • 1/2 C Clear Creek Kirschwasser
  1. Put the cherries in an empty one quart canning jar with all of the rest of the ingredients.
  2. Give the jar an occasional gentle shake.
  3. When the sugar is dissolved put the cherries in the refrigerator and let them age a week before using.

This makes just under a quart of damn good cherries, not "The Cherries", but damn good. These are not inexpensive to make, but they'll last a long time, not as long as you think, but a long time.

A special shout out to Cat for kicking me in the ass and getting me to write a post.

Thanks Cat!




Sunday, January 4, 2009

Garnish With A Cherry

A few years ago I picked up a copy of "Villas at Table" at Multnomah County Library's used bookstore; Title Wave Used Bookstore. The book is a collection of Mr. Villas' essays on food and drink.

Most of the essays are entertaining and educational and frankly forgettable. They're articles about restaurants, visits to France, wines of some obscure region or a recipe for Glockenspiels with Horseradish Sauce. You know the type. The article that keeps you interested while you're waiting to be called at the doctor's office. The story you can put down 95% of the way through and not care if you finish it or not. I like books like this, they're kind of like Reader's Digest, good to have when you need a quick read at bedtime or while you're taking care of business.

This book would probably have been donated back to the library system for them to sell again if an unpublished essay called "A Few Choice Words About the Manhattan" hadn't grabbed my attention. The essay outlines Mr. Villas's introduction, at age twelve, to the Manhattan by his father. It continues on with his pursuit of Manhattans in Manhattan prior to the current cocktail renaissance (the book was published in 1988 and doesn't say when the essay was written). One of his biggest obstacles was that during the time period the essay was written many establishments had eschewed the glowing red maraschino cherry in favor of a lemon or orange twist. Mr. Villas took to carrying his own bottle of the bright red gems in order to satisfy his habit.

Villas the Elder's Manhattan

2.5 oz Blended American Whiskey (I'm guessing I used Elijah Craig 12 y.o. Bourbon)
1 oz of Martini & Rossi Sweet Vermouth
"less than a dash" Angostura Bitters
and a maraschino cherry
Served strained into a 4 oz stemmed cocktail glass

Inspired by fervor of Mr. Villas, I bought a bottle each of marachino cherries, Angostura Bitters and Martini & Rossi sweet vermouth. I don't know what bourbon was in the house when I made that first Manhattan, but I was hooked. Many bottles of bourbon, vermouth and cherries have passed through the doors of my house since I read this article.

James Villas's Perfect Bourbon Manhattan (In his words: "and by "Perfect" I'm by no means referring to the abomination by that name that includes a shot of dry vermouth")
2.5 oz Bonded Whiskey (Bottled in Bond Bourbon is 100 proof)
1.5 oz Cinzano Sweet Vermouth
"a quick dash" Angostura Bitters
A Big Fat maraschino cherry
Served strained into a chilled 6 oz stemmed cocktail glass

Something about the Big Fat Maraschino Cherry has never sat quite right with me. According to the article the Manhattan was invented around 1890 by Supreme Court Judge Charles Henry Truax when he was president of New York's Manhattan Club. The Maraschino as we know it today was invented by an Oregon State University professor named Ernest H. Wiegand. The original Maraschino cherries were made by soaking small sour wild black Maraska cherries, from what is now Croatia, in Maraschino Liqueur. These original cherries were a luxury item and getting one as a garnish was a real treat. I'll deal with my pursuit of the ideal cocktail cherry in a future installment.

Mr. Villas was kind enough to include Judge Truax's recipe for Manhattans in the book. It includes more sweet vermouth than what is common in most of today's recipes. A lot of the older cocktails include a higher proportion of sweet modifiers and I suppose that was a reflection of the tastes of the day.

Judge Truax's Original 1890 Manhattan Club Cocktail
2 oz Rye (or bourbon)
1 oz Sweet Italian Vermouth
A dash of Angostura Bitters
Garnish with a stemmed Maraschino Cherry

One of the really good things about the essay was the fact that there were multiple recipes, using different ratios of whiskey to vermouth, different whiskeys and vermouths. Obviously this is a cocktail that can be customized and tweaked to suit your preferences. This is the kind of research I can get behind.

After making my original Manhattans with a variety of bourbons I noticed that the original recipe called for rye. Hmmm....rye? I headed off to Rose City Liquor and was gratified to see that rye was readily affordable and came in a handy multiple choice selection. The rye I came home with that day, Wild Turkey Rye 101, has pretty much become my house pour for Manhattans ever since.

The Manhattan I'm Drinking Now

2.5 oz Wild Turkey Rye 101
1.0 oz Noilly Prat Sweet Vermouth
2 big dashes of Angostura Bitters
1 housemade cherry

For further reading on Manhattans see This Article by Gary Regan